HISTORY OF PHYLLO DOUGH:
The following was written by Rose H who e-mailed me with information to
clear up a frequently written inaccuracy that Phyllo dough came from
Greece:
Hi! I am Rose H, a 58
year old grandmother of two from Chicago, USA and I love cooking and
traveling around the world. We are very lucky in our country to have such a
rich tapestry of wonderful cuisines, brought by all the immigrants that make
up our nation. It's even a greater treat to be able to taste some of these
dishes where they originated. Here is what I have learned about the famous
baklava, phyllo dough and strudel during my travels.
Even though the word 'phyllo/filo, meaning leaf, is Greek, this dough and
the famous baklava typically made using layers of thin filo is really an old
Turkish invention. The Turks have a rich culinary tradition with a class of
foods called 'Borek' (which I will call pie for our purposes) that use
various thicknesses of white wheat flour dough, multi layered with savory or
sweet fillings and then typically baked in an oven. The savory pies include
ispanak borek (spinach pie), kiyma borek (meat pie), peynir borek (cheese
pie), talas borek, and su borek. The most common "sweet pie" is baklava made
from tissue thin dough. Baklava was introduced in the US by the Greek and
Middle Eastern immigrants who themselves learned it from the Turks during
the Ottoman Empire's rule of the region for over 400 years.
One can find an astounding number of varieties of this dessert in the many
local baklava specialty shops in Istanbul, a huge metropolis in today's
Turkey. You can eat it in delicate coils, squares, gathered to pretty
rounds, or diamonds, and filled with many different nuts including
pistachios, walnuts, or even cream. Always bathed in just the right amount
of syrup, with a sprinkling of finely grated green pistachios, it is a
perfect accompaniment to another original, the rich, thick espresso-like
Turkish coffee, a sure fire way to please a sweet tooth.
In his recently published book, "The KaffeeHaus", here is what the award
winning cookbook author, and Bon Appetit magazine contributor Rick Rodgers
wrote about the influence of Turkish filo dough making on Austrian-Hungarian
Strudels:
"The thin, parchment-like pastry that surrounds the apples in an
Austro-Hungarian strudel is really filo-dough, another culinary inheritance
from the Turks. The major difference is that most filo recipes layer the
dough with the filling in a pan, but most strudels are wound around their
fillings." Hence the name Strudel literally meaning vortex. Since the
Turks were in Hungary for more than a hundred years before they tried to
conquer Vienna, Mr. Rodgers adds that strudel is even more established in
the coffeehouses of Budapest. So that's the story of "Strudel" and "Phyllo/Filo"
dough, a major contribution to our culinary world by the Turkish chefs.
Thank you for giving me the
chance to comment on this and I hope you and your readers will find this
extra bit of information useful. Happy Baking! Rose