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Cut in the Fat

All about fat

"Cutting in" shortening in flour is the technique that makes pastry and biscuits flaky.

Flaky pastry is made by "cutting in the fat" (shortening or butter), also known as "cutting in". It means to combine the flour with the fat in the recipe as quickly as possible. The fat must always be evenly sized, coated with flour and distributed throughout. When these fat pieces melt into pools, they give layers for flakiness. 

For making pie crusts, cut in the fat until all of it is roughly the size of small peas and the texture of bread crumbs. If it is cut into smaller crumb-sized particles, the pastry will be less flaky but more tender and mealy. On the other hand, for biscuits, the fat should be crumb-size.

"Cut in the fat" is accomplished with a pastry blender, two knives or your fingertips. Don't press down on the fat and flour while cutting it in. It needs to be incorporated into the flour as quickly as possible without overhandling the fat so it softens or melts. If it does, you won't get flaky pastry. If the fat becomes oily because the rubbing-in takes longer and everything is too warm, refrigerate or freeze the entire mixture as is until chilled and then try again.

Start with chilled or frozen butter (frozen is better). Measure and cut the butter into small, evenly-sized 1/4-inch cubes. This makes it a perfect size when later blending it into the flour and dry ingredients. I then return the fat to the freezer to chill again. Toss the chilled butter cubes in the flour mixture. 

Then, cut the butter in. As you do, occasionally lift the butter and flour up high with your fingertips and let it fall back down into the bowl, which means that air is being incorporated all the time, and air is what makes pastry light.

bulletThe easiest utensil to use is called a "pastry blender", available from the grocery store or kitchen shop. This inexpensive utensil is a series of horseshoe-shaped wires joined at the top with a straight wooden or plastic handle. This tool is easy to use and perfectly designed for its purpose. 
bulletHowever, you can also use two knives - one in each hand moving in opposite directions, to cut the shortening into the flour. A fork may also be used instead of two knives. 
bulletWhen you use your fingertips, be light and gentle as possible. Don't touch the fat with your palms, the warmest part of your hands. 
bulletFood processor: Use the metal blade and add the chilled fat pieces to the work bowl containing the flour and any other dry ingredients. Quickly pulse it one-second at a time, up to15 times, to combine the dry ingredients with the fat, until crumbly. The fat pieces should be barely visible. When the mixture is properly mixed, it will be slightly yellow, mealy in texture rather than floury, and it will ride up the sides of the bowl. 
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