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Custard 101 - Pastry Cream |

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Pastry cream or crème patissière
is a staple in pastry
kitchens and originated in France. This versatile cream is
used to fill cream puffs, éclairs, Napoléons,
tarts, and other pastries. It is spread in
between cake layers, such as Boston Cream Pie, and using as a base for endless
recipes. It is called the "Mother of all creams!"
Pastry Cream a rich, thick
stirred custard,
cooked on the stove, made from a mixture of
milk or cream, eggs, sugar, flour (roux) and/or cornstarch.
Pastry Cream is versatile and can be easily
flavored with vanilla beans, liqueurs, coffee and fruit purees are some
complementary flavorings are often added. Heavy whipping cream can be folded in
to the Pastry Cream once its cooled for a richer and fluffier cream. You
can easily make chocolate pastry cream by adding a couple of ounces of
bittersweet or semi-sweet dark chocolate to the base recipe along with the
vanilla. Another
flavoring option is to add a tablespoon or so of a flavored liqueuer such as
Frangelico, Chambord, Kahlua or crème de cacao or others. Gourmet shops will
also have flavored nut pastes such as hazelnut or almond which can be used to
flavor the pastry cream.
Why
do you need cornstarch or flour in Pastry Cream?
Cooked on the stovetop,
for pastry cream to thicken, it needs to be
heated just long enough for the egg's proteins to join as tightly as
possible without curdling. Cornstarch and/or flour actually blocks the
proteins from each other, allowing the eggs to be heated longer and higher
for maximum thickening. Plus, the starch adds a small amount of its own
thickening power. |
The main thickener for Pastry Cream
is eggs, but it gets some help from cornstarch or roux (typically a mixture of
fat and flour heated and used as a basis for sauces, but in this case, just
flour). Eggs make it smooth and rich, but can also curdle if heated too much.
Gentle heating is the way to go. Here’s what’s going on: When eggs are heated,
their proteins unwind, then join with other unwound proteins. This causes the
proteins to get thicker — the longer they’re heated, the more tightly they join
and the thicker they get. Gentle cooking (like poaching) keeps the egg proteins
loose. If the heat’s turned up, the proteins will seize up and you’ll have
scrambled eggs.
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Crème Frangipane
is a rich pastry cream flavored with ground almonds and used to fill or top
pastries and cakes. The name has a very unusual origin. In the 16th century
an Italian nobleman, Marquis Muzio Frangipani, created a perfume for
scenting gloves. It was popular in Paris, and pastry cooks flavored pastry
cream with almonds and called it 'frangipane', presumably to take advantage
of the scents popularity. |
PASTRY CREAM TIPS:
Do not make Pastry Cream in an aluminum pot because it gives a
grayish coloration to it.
If the heat is too high or you are stirring too slow at the
point when the pastry cream reaches a boil, it will lump. If this happens, pass
it through a strainer immediately, before it cools.
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Cream Puff:
A small, hollow puff made from choux pastry (cream-puff pastry) and filled.
Pastry Cream is a classic filling. |
When removing the cooked Pastry Cream from the pot to another
container, do not scrape the bottom of the pan. You often see a layer of the
cooked or burned mixture on the bottom of the pan and you don't want to mix it
in with the good stuff.
Always strain your Pastry Cream while still warm through a
fine mesh strainer before chilling. You want to make sure you strain out the
small lumps which are really the chalazae parts of the egg.
Once made and while still warm, press
plastic wrap directly on the surface of the Pastry Cream, and refrigerate until
cold and set, at least 3 hours or up to 2 days. Chilling thickens the filling,
so make it first, then make the rest of the recipe. But
don’t whisk the cold Pastry Cream — it breaks down the
starch, thinning it.
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Pastry Cream and Berry Tart Tips: When filling a pastry shell
with pastry cream, I like to use a soft rubber spatula. Apply a generous
quarter-inch layer into a thoroughly cooled pre-baked (blind-baked) shell.
If filling with berries, lay them on lightly; don't press them into the
cream so they end up "swimming" in them! For a professional look, melt some
sieved apricot, red currant jelly or any flavored jam heated with some
water, and apply it with a soft pastry brush while the glaze is still warm
so it goes on smoothly and evenly. The glaze will give the tart an appealing
shine and keep the fruit looking fresh longer! Fresh pastry cream filled
tarts keep for one day, refrigerated, but are best served about 30 minutes
after assembly.
Strawberry Tart Recipe |
Never leave a recipe that includes Pastry Cream out on a hot
day; it is an ideal mixture for bacteria! Refrigerate cakes or any recipe made
with pastry cream fillings or whipped cream frostings immediately. You can
freeze cakes with filled with pastry cream, but it won't be quite the same nice
texture as before and may make the cake soggy. Remember to thaw and then store
the cake in the refrigerator.
Technical Stages of Making
Cornstarch-Thickened Pastry Cream: Combine cornstarch with some sugar
and milk, add egg yolks, incorporate this mixture into a separate pot of hot
milk and sugar, cook slowly until thickened. Finish with vanilla extract and
butter. The result is a velvety smooth custard that spreads without being runny.
Technical Stages of Making Roux-Thickened
Pastry Cream: This type of pastry
cream is made by thickening sweet milk with a white roux and tempering in the
yolks. If vanilla extract were to be used, it would be added at the end. The
mixture starts out as stiff, but obtains a sauce-like consistency when the added
sugar melts and becomes fluid. The egg yolks add fat and lecithin or silkiness
and color and flavor.
1. Bring the milk to a boiling point. If
vanilla beans are used to flavor the milk, add here spliced lengthwise.
2. Mix the yolks and sugar and whisk until pale and light.
3. Add the flour.
4. As soon as the milk starts to boil pour at once the milk on the egg yolks,
whisking.
5. Transfer back into the milk pot and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, constantly
stirring and making sure the cream doesn't stick to the bottom.
6. Empty the cream in a bowl. Take a piece of plastic wrap plastic film pushed
on the surface of the cream to avoid the formation of a crust on the surface. It
is also possible to brush the surface of the cream with some butter and then
cover.
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