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Chocolate
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Chocolate for tempering
comes in the form of a hard and solid, pure bar or tablets, either as dark,
white or milk chocolate. It is the type of high quality chocolate usually
purchased in specialty stores and some supermarkets, not to be confused with
eating or baking chocolate squares from the grocery store. |
Tempering
is necessary when using larger amounts of chocolate (1/3 pound and more) to
mold, coat or dip confections
with or when making
chocolate decorations,
such as sculpted ones or ribbons.
Although our intuition is
to melt the
chocolate and use as,
just melting it for these types of recipes won't work, even though it tastes
just as good. Tempering is
done so the chocolate will harden with desirable attributes
by stabilizing the cocoa butter (fat) crystals found in it.
Simply melting chocolate is perfect when making a
recipe, small chocolate items with a few ounces of chocolate or those with
chocolate chips.
| Tempering
chocolate is analogous to melting a stick of butter.
Butter, like chocolate, has been previously melted and
tempered by the producer in order that it hardens to a proper consistency
and looks presentable when we buy it.
At home, when we melt it again for our own use, the solids
and fat separate - this can be seen clearly in the pan; the solids are the
small clumps in the pan.
If the separated butter is cooled as is, it won't harden
properly. The solids and fats must be reheated again to re-combine them, so
when they harden, they do so as a solid mass. |
Temperature plays an important
role in the chocolate tempering process.
It is done by
first melting "pure" chocolate,
cooling it and then reheating slightly at precise temperatures
to achieve the desired crystal structure in the finished, solidified
product.
All
temperatures are measured with a
Mercury-Gauge Chocolate Thermometer
because it measures in 1 degree increments, extremely important when
tempering.
| 1 pound (16 ounces)
of chocolate, you will get about 16 lollipops, or 32 bite size candies.
Standard size molds will require about 1/3 to 1/2 pound. Best all around
bet?? Start with 1 pound. |
If you simply melt chocolate, pour it into
a mold, and let it cool, the resulting solid will be inferior to tempered
chocolate in three major ways:
Appearance.
Tempered chocolate releases easily from a mold and
keeps at room temperature for months without discoloring or becoming streaky.
Have you ever had the experience of opening a bar of
chocolate found in a cabinet that was stored far too long, and finding a
grayish, powdery surface on the chocolate? This is called "bloom". It doesn't
actually affect the taste of the chocolate at all, but it doesn't look nice.
Untempered chocolate used for confections and molding, develops serious bloom in
24 to 48 hours, and it never gets the beautiful shine of tempered chocolate.
Solidity.
Well-tempered chocolate sets hard, snaps crisply
when broken, gets a lustrous sheen, feels dry to the touch and smooth in the
mouth. Untempered chocolate never develops the hardness or
"snap" that one expects from a piece of chocolate. It can be very messy to serve
in warm conditions.
Mouthfeel. Tempered
chocolate melts at a specific temperature
(1-2 degrees below normal body temperature) for a perfect mouthfeel.
This is very important. The texture of bulk untempered chocolate
is highly unpleasant and the flavor doesn't develop properly in your mouth. It's
just not right.
THE THREE STEP TEMPERING PROCESS-
for dark, milk and white and couverture chocolates.
Stir constantly during the steps and avoid having
moisture from coming in direct contact with the chocolate:
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STEP #1:
Melt chocolate, in a double boiler, to between 115 and 120
degrees F as measured with a
Mercury-Gauge Chocolate Thermometer.
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STEP #2: Cool
chocolate to 84 to 85 degrees F. |
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STEP #3:
Reheat chocolate to 88 to 91 degrees F (dark) or 86 to 87
degrees F (milk or white). |
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IT IS NOW TEMPERED.
A simple method of checking if the chocolate
is in temper, is to apply a small quantity of chocolate to a piece of
paper or to the point of a knife. If the chocolate has been correctly
tempered it will harden evenly and show a good gloss within five
minutes. Or, spread a thin layer on a scrap of parchment, wait five
minutes, and then try to peel the chocolate from the paper. If you can,
and it's not blotchy, you're in business. If not, start the tempering
process again. |
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KEEP CHOCOLATE IN
TEMPER: Ideal temperatures are no lower than
84 to 85 degrees F; nearer to 88 degrees F (dark) or 86 degrees (milk or
white). If the chocolate hardens, you must start the tempering process
again. |
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When you buy
commercially available pure chocolate, it has already been tempered
by the processor as the final step when transforming cocoa beans into
high quality chocolate. You can tell it has been done by looking at and tapping
your chocolate bar -- it should be shiny, sound hollow when tapped, does not
break easily when you try and take a piece from it and has all of the attributes
of well-tempered chocolate previously described above.
It's
best to at least temper 1 pound to a 1-1/2 pounds at a time to prevent
burning; small amounts burn easily. And, chocolate in small amounts, can
easily lose its temper.
If you have any left-over,
remember you can "reuse" chocolate literally hundreds of times! But, you
need to retemper it every time. Store left-overs in a cool dry place, NOT in
the refrigerator. The freezer is ok as long as its well-wrapped.
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When you
melt chocolate for your own use, you in effect break the temper from the
processor and its crystals separate into four types: beta, gamma, alpha and beta
prime.
The beta or good crystals are
lost somewhere in the molten chocolate and and when it cools, the last three
crystals contribute to a chocolate that won't fully harden and will have a
streaked and dull sheen, called a "bloom". However, the
densest and most stable form hardened chocolate (cocoa butter) can take is
called the beta form, achieved only through tempering.
All
couverture chocolate that is being used for coating, molding and enrobing,
without the addition of any ingredients (ie. butter, cream, eggs, etc.) must
be tempered so that it retains the smooth gloss, snap feel and creamy
texture that makes an enjoyable looking and eating chocolate. |
Tempering ensures that the beta
crystals in the chocolate are not lost when melted and that it will harden back
with its original crystalline pattern, all with a uniform size, resulting
in all of the desirable traits of good chocolate confections and decorations can
have. Beta crystals are composed of triglyceride molecules
interlocked in a way that makes them most resistant to melting (they have a
melting point of about 95 or 96 degrees F and most resistant to physical
distortion (this is the reason the chocolate snaps rather than bends and doesn't
set when cooled). The percentage of triglyceride molecules that are in the beta
crystal form (seed crystals) determines how thick the chocolate is (and, hence,
how it flows), how it cools, and how it will eventually appear. Too few crystals
and the chocolate won’t harden or contract properly; this is called
under-tempered chocolate. Too many crystals and it may be too thick for enrobing
and dull in appearance; this is over-tempered chocolate.
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If chocolate has been tempered by you and then hardens, it can be retempered
or just melted and used for
ganache or baking recipes.
If the chocolate is
heated too hot or not enough during the
3-step tempering process or hardens after tempering, you have to start
again. |
During
this process it is important to stir the chocolate in just the right way;
adequate stirring encourages the formation of lots
of small beta or good crystals with
too little
stirring will prevent the right crystals from forming.
To see if you have properly tempered your
chocolate, a quick test is to dip a spoon into the melted chocolate. It should
coat the back of a spoon with an even layer and then harden into a shiny shell.
If not, the chocolate will remain soft and dull.
The key to success when dipping chocolates at
home is to temper the chocolate and then keep it at the optimum temperature
while coating your centers or molding. But, if the chocolate you have tempered
goes "out of temper" or hardens, cools below or is heated above its "temperate
zone", it can't be used unless it is "tempered"
again. NOTE: If you have added cream, butter or any other ingredient to the
melted, pure chocolate, it can't be tempered again. Instead its perfect to use
for baking recipes and small chocolates.
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GENERAL
TEMPERATURE GUIDELINES WHEN WORKING WITH CHOCOLATE: |
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Melting and tempering is
done at certain temperatures, as measured with a
Chocolate Thermometer.
Sometimes the best temperature is printed on the chocolate's label. But, for
home baking, most recipes have you heat it until "it melts".
Chocolate melts best at
temperatures between 104 and 113 F (40 and 45 C). The process starts
around the low 90s degrees F when the cocoa butter in it starts to
heat. Melting temperatures must never exceed 115 degrees F (milk and white)
and 120 degrees F for dark, otherwise it will burn. |
There are several general
rules to follow before you start with any tempering method:
Before starting, make sure you
have the time to pay undivided attention during the whole process.
Chocolate is as
temperamental as it is wonderful, and must be watched and handled very
carefully. Because chocolate is so delicate to
work with, many cooks often find they have a problem melting or tempering it
properly. Temperatures that are too high can scorch it, temperatures too low can
cause it to harden unevenly after melting.
The key to successfully melting or
tempering chocolate is to melt it in a double boiler or indirect, very low heat,
while gently stirring. And, being careful that no beads of moisture are allowed
to mingle with the chocolate or it will clump up called
seizing.
The higher the quality
the chocolate, the more
forgiving it is. With this type of chocolate,
some processors recommend heating their chocolate slightly higher. You
should consult the manufacturer for the best temperature or it is sometimes
printed on the label. If you can't find, follow the usual temperature zones,
below. |
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To cool melted chocolate quickly or if it becomes
lumpy during the process, remove from heat and blend with an
Immersion Blender, available from cookware
stores; it is invaluable. You can
also strain the chocolate, but it can be difficult and makes a huge mess.
You don't want to use a mixer, because it will beat too much air into it.
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Milk and white chocolate
are especially sensitive to heat, more than dark. White chocolate is
the most delicate to work with. The milk solids easily lump up in the melted
chocolate mixture if exposed to too much heat. Most think the lumps are unmelted
chocolate, and turn up the heat, which causes further problems.
When tempering chocolate, be very careful
to stay within the "temperature zones". If at any time
the chocolate is heated beyond them, the types of crystals you need to hold its
temper will melt too. In addition, chocolate will burn or a gray "bloom" or
white streaks will appear on the outside when cooled. It is still edible,
however.
Be sure no liquid gets into the chocolate
as this will cause clumping or
seizing.
When chocolate is in a
molten state, work quickly to use it. Properly tempered chocolate
will cool at room temperature and start to set up in 5 minutes, and if placed in
the fridge will turn hard in 5 minutes.
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The Steps of Tempering Chocolate:
the "Ice Cube" Method, my
favorite way.
NOTE: It is advisable to use a
Chocolate Thermometer during tempering. Anytime you go over the recommended
temperatures, the chocolate is considered out of temper, and you have to
start again. If you scorch or burn it, it is no longer usable. |
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Tempering Steps |
For
Bittersweet or Semisweet Chocolate |
For Milk
and White Chocolate |
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TEMPERING
STEP #1 - MELT:
Chop chocolate
and reserve 1/3. The remainder is melted in a double boiler to no more than
120 degrees F. Above 120 degrees F, the
chocolate separates, burns and can no longer be used. When cocoa butter
crystals melt at this temperature, they lose their shape and the
crystals become unstable, so Step#2 is necessary. |
Melt 2/3 of chocolate to 115 to 120 degrees F. Stir constantly.
By melting it to a specified high temperature, you
dissolve all crystals and start with a virgin product. |
Same as dark. Milk and white chocolate heats and burns more
quickly than dark, so watch carefully. |
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TEMPERING STEP
#2 - COOL: The chocolate
is then cooled by "seeding" or mixing in chopped pieces of solid chocolate
because they are at a cooler room temperature of 68 to 70 degrees F. The
molten cocoa butter also does a kind of follow-the-leader and arranges
itself after the fashion of the "seeds", which are already tempered by the
manufacturer.
Don't add too much at a time as
it may not all melt and the mixture will become lumpy. If it
does, use an Immersion Blender,
which is invaluable, or strain the lumps out, which is trickier. Don't use a
mixer. The key is to keep stirring rapidly and to take its temperature
frequently until the proper one is reached. This gets the crystallization of
the good beta crystals started, but it does allow some undesirable
beta-primes to form, too, so go to Step #3. |
Cool to 84 to 85 degrees F. To
do, remove from heat and rapidly stir in the 1/3 of the reserved chopped
chocolate, 1- 2 tablespoon at a time, which will cool the mixture.
Stir constantly. |
Same as dark |
| Callebaut
manufactures chocolate in a convenient small, round particles for this
process. This chocolate is known as CALETS. The quantity of them to be
added depends on the temperature of the melted chocolate and on the
temperature of the Calets. They should be used at room temperature. |
NOTE:
Another way
to add stable crystals and to bring down the melted chocolate's temperature,
is to add a large 2- to 3-inch piece of chocolate, instead of chopped.
Some of it will melt and cool the molten chocolate to the correct
temperature, as in Step #2. When reached, take any unmelted chocolate out of
the mixture and wrap in plastic to save for the next tempering. |
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TEMPERING STEP #3 -
REHEAT THE CHOCOLATE:
in the
double boiler so it will harden with a perfect consistency. Here
reheating melts any of the undesirable crystals that are formed in cooling
during Step #2. When it reaches the desired temperature, the chocolate is
now tempered. If it is reheated to more
than 87 or 91 degrees F, it goes out of temper, and you have to start again
from the beginning
(For advanced chocolate-makers,
test the temperature by placing a dab just below the lower lip. It should
feel just warmer than warm milk.) |
Reheat to 88 to 91 degrees F (dark). |
Reheat to 86 to 87 degrees F (milk or white) |
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TEMPERING STEP #4 - CHECK TEMPER BEFORE USING:
A simple method of checking if
the chocolate is in temper, is to apply a small quantity of chocolate
to a piece of paper or to the point of a knife. If the
chocolate has been correctly tempered it will harden evenly and show a
good gloss within five minutes. Or, spread a thin layer on a scrap of
parchment, wait five minutes, and then try to peel the chocolate from
the paper. If you can, and it's not blotchy, you're in business. If
not, start the tempering process again. |
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TEMPERING STEP #5 - KEEP CHOCOLATE IN TEMPER DURING
USE:
Ideal temperatures are no lower than 84 to 85 degrees F; nearer to 88
degrees F (dark) or 86 degrees (milk or white).
The chocolate will cool if not
kept at a constant temperature, and gets thick and dull as is does.
If chocolate cools to or lower than 84 to 85
degrees F and is still melted, you can reheat it multiple times back to
"temperate zone" of 88 to 91 degrees F (dark) or 86
to 87 degrees F (milk and white).
If the chocolate cools to the point of
hardening, the tempering process must start again.
Never let the chocolate's temperature exceed
92 degrees F, for the dark chocolate or 88 degrees F for the milk and white
chocolate, or the stable cocoa butter crystals will start to melt and the
temper will be lost. |
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 | The best way is to reheat the chocolate is to
briefly place it over a simmering pot of water. Fit bowl or top of
double boiler over pot and constantly stir. Be careful because it only
takes 10 seconds to go from 84 degrees F to the top end of the
temperate zone of 91 degrees F for dark or 5 to 8 seconds to reach 87
degrees F for milk and white. |
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 | Or, some place
a 250-watt heat lamp set about a foot above the bowl to keep the
chocolate warm, but it can easily overheat, so be careful.
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 | Or, another way
to keep the chocolate at an even temperature is to set the bowl on a
foil-lined heating pad (such as the type used for backaches). This is
a simple and nearly foolproof way. First wrap the heating pad with
foil to protect it and then wrap around the sides of the chocolate
bowl. (Do not put the foil over it). As you work, stir the chocolate
frequently and turn the control dial on and off to control the
temperature. You must be diligent in this; it is very easy for the
tempered chocolate to overheat and to go out of temper, even when
warmed gently. |
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 | Or,
try a crock pot as a chocolate warmer by placing the tempered or
melted chocolate in it. But, make sure the temperature stays in the
reheating range while keeping it warm (Do a test beforehand and make
sure this method will work. Heat water and test. Note that chocolate
will heat faster because it contains cocoa butter or fat).
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 | Or, heat the
bowl of chocolate in the microwave on LOW (10 percent) power for 5 to
10 second intervals, to raise the temperature. Watch it carefully as
it rises quickly and can easily burn. Stir the chocolate for at least
1 minute before checking its temperature. |
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TEMPERING STEP #6
- REFRIGERATE OR FREEZE FORMED CHOCOLATES FOR A FEW
MINUTES: Allow chocolates to briefly set. |
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TEMPERING STEP #7
- STORAGE:
Store all chocolate in a cool, dry place.
Do not store in the refrigerator. The freezer is a perfect
place for keeping chocolate long-term. For more, go to
storage. |
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Other
Methods of Tempering: |
Classic
Method: Traditionally, chocolate is tempered by pouring
some of it on a cool marble slab and worked into a "mush" as it cools, but now
it can be done on a granite or stainless steel countertop, as well. It
results in the most glossy, crisp chocolate that will set with the most
reliability and is recommended for the most demanding chocolate work.
Before using, make sure the countertop's surface is a cold,
clean and dry. If necessary, cool it by wiping with cold water and
then dry it thoroughly, as tiny beads of water left on surface will cause the
chocolate to seize.
- To temper, melt all
of the chocolate in a large heat-proof glass bowl
(Tempering Step #1) or microwave 1 pound at half power
for 30 seconds. Check the temperature of the chocolate; it should be between
115 to 120 degrees F. Pour 2/3s on a cold table or marble surface.
(Keep the other 1/3 at about 100 degrees F; do not let it harden).
- Using a pastry or bench scraper and angled
spatula, spread the chocolate. Then move it to the center, clean the scraper
with the spatula and spread continuously. Continue this spreading and scraping
process until the chocolate cools to 80 to 82 degrees
F, for all types,
which is a lower temperature than quick-tempering
(Tempering Step#2). It will lose its shine and form a thick
paste with a dull matte finish. Work quickly so that the chocolate does not
lump. This process can take anywhere from 2 to 10 minutes, depending on the
amount of chocolate, the type and brand as well as the temperature of the
kitchen. The professional term for this is "mush."
- Add the "mush" from the previous step, to the
remaining 1/3 melted chocolate. Using a clean, dry rubber spatula, stir the
chocolate gently, until smooth. Be careful not to create air bubbles as you
do. Return the mixture to heat, stirring constantly until the desired
temperature is reached (Tempering
Step#3). For dark chocolate it should register between 88 to 91
degrees F for dark. For milk and white chocolates, it should register between
86 to 87 degrees F. Check temper before using (Tempering
Step #4).
- As you work, regularly stir the chocolate and
check its temperature to keep it "in temper" (Tempering
Step#5).
By
Microwave:
Use when making small decorative shapes, only.
Be careful, as chocolate burns easily and microwaves
heat quickly. Microwave until the temperature of the chocolate reaches between
115 to 120 degrees F. Go to
Tempering, Step
#2.
The amount of time it
takes to microwave-melt chocolate depends upon:
1. Wattage of the oven
2. Amount of cocoa butter in the chocolate
3. Amount of chocolate and size of the pieces
4. Size of the vessel containing the chocolate
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Ounces |
Melting Time
(minutes) |
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1 |
1 |
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2 |
1-1/2 |
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3 |
2 |
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4 |
3-1/2 |
In
a 700-watt oven using large chunks of chocolate, use this chart for the amounts
and approximate melt times. For best results, stir chocolate every 30 seconds
because chocolate, especially white chocolate, will often retain its shape and
will not look melted until stirred.
Note:
Cut time in half
if chocolate is grated, chips or ground in a processor. Decrease time by 1/3 if
oven is convection-microwave.
 | All such containers
should be microwave-safe and smooth, flexible (if plastic), and always be
dry. A large, glass measuring cup is ideal. Be
careful not to use a vessel much larger than that of the chocolate to be
melted. If the chocolate is melted in a wide bowl, the microwave is less
able to heat it evenly. |
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 | Do not cover chocolate. Moisture might
form under the cover and drip into chocolate causing it to seize or
stiffen. |
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 | To do: microwave on
medium (50 percent) checking every 15 seconds,
stirring every 30 seconds to evenly disperse heat. Heat 12 ounces or less
on medium heat for 2 minutes; do not use high power. It takes roughly 3 to
5 minutes at medium power to melt 12 oz. of chocolate.
You don't want to fully melt the chocolate
in the microwave. |
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 | Once the chocolate becomes shiny, do
not continue to microwave (it won't
look melted). Remove from the microwave and stir for
1 minute to complete the melting process and stabilize the temperature.
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 | For large amounts, check the temperature
of the chocolate with a
thermometer.
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 | If you are going to use your chocolate for
dipping you may want a thinner consistency. This can be accomplished by
adding vegetable shortening and heating an additional 30 seconds. Start
with one tablespoon per cup not to exceed 3 tablespoons per cup.
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By Tempering Machine:
Takes care of the tempering process in just 25 to 30 minutes and keeps the
chocolate in temper. It tends to be expensive.
Chocolate is made up from crystals.
What are they? Cocoa butter molecules link together in several
different crystalline forms given the names of Greek letters—beta,
gamma, alpha and beta prime.
( Beta and beta prime are both called beta crystals). The most basic differences
among the them are are melting point, density, and stability.
Crystals are molecules linked
together in three dimensions. The temperature below which a liquid
becomes solid through crystal formation is called its freezing point. For
example, ice is the crystalline form that molecules of water take when they
freeze or solidify. Even though the word "freezing" is normally associated with
the idea of coldness, it is clear that there are many substances (like
chocolate) that are solid (or "frozen") at room temperature and whose freezing
point is actually fairly warm. Conversely, crystals dissolve (that is, they
melt) when subjected to temperatures above this point. In the case of water, the
freezing (or melting) point is a single temperature—32 degrees F (0 degrees
C)—because water consists of a single type of molecule. Cocoa butter crystals,
however, being made up of a variety of triglyceride molecules, freeze and melt
over a range of temperatures determined by the individual melting and freezing
points of the specific molecules present.
How does crystal formation transform a liquid into a
solid? As more and more crystals are packed into a limited space a
liquid will gradually solidify. Crystal growth occurs either by an increase in
the number of individual crystals or by an increase in the size of individual
crystals. Small, evenly distributed crystals of similar size create a solid with
uniform density, while a combination of large and small crystals creates a solid
of variable density. The more tightly packed the crystals within a limited space
become the denser or harder the solid becomes.
What does stability mean in the world of crystals? In the simplest
terms, stability means that a crystal (or a solid made from crystals) is
unlikely to change once it takes a particular form or shape. Another way of
thinking of stability is that more energy (e.g., heat or physical force) is
required to disrupt the shape of more stable crystals. Imagine that triglyceride
molecules—the building blocks of crystals—are chairs designed to stack. If the
chairs are placed one on top of another, the space between the chairs is reduced
to the minimum—a measure of density—and the stack itself is virtually impossible
to disrupt by pushing and pulling—that is, they are stable. If, on the other
hand, the chairs are randomly thrown together, there will be large spaces
between the chairs and much less force will disrupt the pile. To complete the
analogy, the most desirable cocoa butter crystals are dense and stable.
What are the basic principles of tempering?
There are two basic concepts that underlie successful tempering: formation or
addition of the correct seed crystals and proper cooling and heating to make
certain that these crystals are present in ideal numbers. Seed crystals are beta
crystals, which, by growing larger, eventually cause the liquid chocolate to
solidify. In chocolate that has been heated to the point that the cocoa butter
has no crystals present, beta crystals can then be formed by lowering the
temperature to no less than about 84 degrees F. It is
important to remember that crystal growth requires time. (This step
can be by-passed by using previously well-tempered chocolate to provide seed
crystal.) Once seed is formed, it is stirred into melted chocolate.
Stirring has two essential effects: the equal distribution
of seed crystals and the equalization of temperature throughout the mass of
chocolate. As stirring continues the chocolate will begin to thicken.
It is at this point that small changes in temperature will control the amount of
seed present. Slight cooling will cause growth of
additional seed crystals. Slight heating will reduce the number of crystals.
Why is the number of seed crystals so important?
It is, of course, impossible to know how many seed crystals are present as you
temper chocolate, but The ideal number of seed crystals is probably only about
1% at the time the cooling process begins. Judging when you have reached this
point is a function of practice and experience.
some information from scharffenberger.com
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