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MAKING CANDY & THE ROLE OF SUGAR CRYSTALS

Making Candy and Crystallization:

Always make candy on a cool, dry day. Heat, rain and humidity, as well as altitude, can affect how candy turns out (caramel syrup can made made, however) -- cooking time can increase substantially or the sugar may never set up at all.  This is because sugar attracts water. 

I usually try to check out the weather, but if I can't, then I do this little "thing" that I have done for years: I press my chin down to my chest and then lift. If it sticks then the humidity is high, if not, it isn't. 

The most common crystal, table sugar, is a component in many candies because so many things can be done with it. Sugars (sucrose) are composed of simple molecules of one glucose and one fructose molecule bonded together. Identical sugar molecules arrange themselves in orderly geometric patterns repeated over and over again which can't be seen with the naked eye. But the underlying atomic nature of sugar results in its crystalline form. 

Candies are formed by adding sugar (a solute) to water (a solvent), called a sugar solution, and boiling the mixture to a codified temperature or density that ranges from 215 to 356 degrees F, measured with a Candy Thermometer. This high heat dissolves the sugar, evaporates the water and breaks apart the sugar's molecules. As a result, you get a greater concentration of the sugar, eventually reaching a supersaturation of the sugar molecules in the water.  

Sugar is boiled in one of three different ways: the 2 classic methods, being wet (sugar and water) or dry (sugar alone) and a third method using the microwave.

When broken apart and concentrated in a supersaturated solution, sugar molecules are unstable. They want to come back together again at any chance to return to their previous crystalline structure. An unclean pot, any jarring or stirring of the supersaturated solution at the wrong time, can send them back to their original crystalline pattern and dry state, crystallizing the mixture and ruining the whole candy batch. There are many ways to control unwanted crystallization, depending on the recipe.

The secret to making different types of candy lies in attaining the correct concentration of the supersaturated solution through heat and then controlling the recrystallization of the sugar crystals. This results in two categories of candy: Crystalline and Non-crystalline. Here candy can range from the soft textures of caramels and fudges, where crystallization is minimized, to hard candies where crystallization results in a desired grainy or crystalline structure. 

Candy Types: Crystalline & Non-crystalline Candy
The different heating levels determine the types of candy: high temperatures make hard candy, medium will make soft candy and low makes chewy candy. Sugar cooked to 300 degrees F is going to be harder than sugar cooked to 290 degrees F. That's because at higher temperatures the sugar syrup is more concentrated because it allows for more sugar to dissolve and the water to evaporate, which becomes less so as the temperature drops. 

Recrystallization of the sugar's molecules are influenced by the temperature and density to which the sugar solution is boiled to, whether or not other ingredients are added, such as cream, butter, corn syrup, etc. and when and how fast the solution is cooled, or whether or not it is stirred or kneaded. As a result, you can create a wide variety of candies, that all start with a simple, boiled sugar and water solution, that will satisfy the particular cravings of anyone with a sweet tooth. 

For example, for a more crystalline candy like Fudge or Fondant, the mixture is boiled to 234 - 240 degrees F and then set aside to cool slowly. Then it is stirred again to break crystals into smaller pieces, making the fudge smooth and creamy. When making rock candy, the solution is cooked to 247 - 252 degrees F and not stirred during cooling, allowing large sugar crystals to form. To make hard candy like lollipops, the solution is heated to 300 - 310 degrees F and cooled quickly. 

Crystalline Candies: (Formulas) Crystalline candies can be subdivided into two groups a) candies with crystals you can see, such as rock candy, and b) cream candies in which crystals are too small to be detected by the tongue, such as fondant and fudge. Aside from rock candy and certain types of sugar, crystal coatings are desirable on candies such as bon-bons and gum drops and cream candies. Crystalline candies are cooked to between 234 and 240 degrees F.

Ingredients and procedures can help this process. "Interfering agents" are ingredients which prevent the growth of large crystals. For instance, when making fondant, cream of tarter is added with the sugar to produce an invert sugar which inhibits large crystals from forming. 

In other recipes glucose in the form of corn syrup is used to aid in controlling crystal formation. Fondant creams used for the center of dipped chocolates use fats to add richness of flavor but also to ensure small crystal formation. Some chocolate fudge recipes include marshmallow creme as an ingredient because it is a non-crystalline candy and acts as interfering agent

bullet Fudge
bullet Fondant 
bullet Rock candy  
bullet Maple Sugar candy
bulletAny other candies which have crystals as an important structural component.

NOTE: Divinity is a crystalline candy but is a special case as the crystals are dispersed in a foam. 

Non-crystalline Candies (amorphous): (Formulas) Non-crystalline candies are simpler to make. The goal is to stop crystallization from happening as these candies are cooked to a higher temperature than crystallized candies,

"Interfering agents" are added which prevent the growth of large crystals or prevent crystallization such as invert sugar, which is molasses or corn syrup, and/or an acid, such a lemon juice, cream of tartar or vinegar. Even the addition of fats and egg whites coat crystals and prevent their growth.  

Many of the non-crystalline candies are poured out of pan immediately after cooking because they harden quickly. Candies such as toffee and brittles rapidly solidify on cooling and produce a rigid mass that prevents formation of highly organized crystals. Amorphous candies are made from highly dehydrated sugar syrups--as soon as they begin to cool, the sugar crystallizes out of the solution before the sugar molecules have time to move close to other sugar molecules to form ordered arrangements. 

bullet Caramels
bullet Brittles 
bulletTaffies 
bullet Hard candy
bullet Marshmallows
bulletGum Drops 

NOTE: Marshmallows and gum drops are also special classes of candies as they contain a gelling substance.

The variables for controlling crystallization in candy are: 
Recrystallization is a process that has been used to purify solid material by dissolving the solid (called a solute) in an appropriate liquid (called a solvent) and then having the material come out of solution in crystalline form. Depending upon conditions, one may obtain a mass of many small crystals or one large crystal.

Unwanted crystallization can occur at any time during the making of sugar candy, ruining the recipe. That's because sugar crystals look for any excuse during the candy making process to return to their original, dry and stable state. Crystallization at the wrong time can be obvious early on when the sugar solution becomes cloudy or the whole mixture will literally freeze turning into a crackled mess. Sometimes crystallization is found when it's too late, such as when biting into fudge or caramel and you find its texture is like sand.  

In the 17th century, French candy-makers had discovered that fat has the handy property of getting in the way of crystallization. Acid ingredients accomplish much the same thing--in the 18th century, adding an acid such as cream of tartar to sugar syrup was called "greasing" it -- by breaking some of the sucrose molecules into glucose and fructose sugar, thereby cluttering up the solution for would-be crystals. 

Probably it also explains why a lot of old-time butterscotch recipes call for acidic ingredients, such as a little vinegar or lemon juice, and maybe even how a bit of lemon peel flavor came to be traditional in English butterscotch candies.

However, sugar cannot start to crystallize at the wrong time without something to serve as a seed, pattern, or nucleus. It takes only ONE little, tiny crystal at the side of the pan, introduced from an outside source, to act as a seed, causing nearby crystals to follow the leader, ruining the whole batch. Here are some ways to prevent it: 

Interfering Agents: Ordered crystallization in non-crystalline candy or an interference with crystal growth in crystalline candy is prevented by ingredients. These ingredients are called interfering agents. 

You'll sometimes see an interferring agent(s) used in candy recipes to help stop premature crystallization and to affect the size and amount of crystals that form when the sugar recrystallizes. One way to prevent the crystallization of sucrose in candy is to make sure that there are other types of sugar—usually, fructose and glucose—to get in the way. Large crystals of sucrose have a harder time forming when molecules of fructose and glucose are around. Crystals form something like Legos locking together, except that instead of Lego pieces, there are molecules. If some of the molecules are a different size and shape, they won’t fit together, and a crystal doesn’t form.

A simple way to get other types of sugar into the mix is to "invert" the sucrose (the basic white sugar you know well) by adding an acid to the recipe. Acids such as lemon juice or cream of tartar cause sucrose to break up (or invert) into its two simpler components, fructose and glucose. For example, most fudge recipes contain either corn syrup (which contains glucose instead of the sucrose of table sugar) or cream of tartar (which breaks sucrose into glucose and fructose). 

Another way is to add a nonsucrose sugar to a candy recipe, such as corn syrup, which is mainly glucose. Some lollipop recipes use as much as 50% corn syrup; this is to prevent sugar crystals from ruining the texture.

Fats in candy serve a similar purpose. Fatty ingredients such as butter help interfere with crystallization — again, by getting in the way of the sucrose molecules that are trying to lock together into crystals. Toffee owes its smooth texture and easy breakability to an absence of sugar crystals, thanks to a large amount of butter in the mix.

Other interfering agents such as cream, milk, or cocoa powder also help prevent unwanted crystallization and also add flavor and interest. But, remember these ingredients do not entirely stop the unwanted crystallization process.

Check candy formulas to see what types of interfering agents are used. For example:

bullet

Corn syrup: contains glucose instead of the sucrose of table sugar. In caramels, brittles or hard candy, you want to prevent crystallization and their recipes contain enough corn syrup or acids to do this.

bullet

Cream of tartar: breaks sucrose into glucose and fructose. If adding acid, cooking time is critical - too short, coarse and grainy candy / too long, too soft

bullet

Brown sugar, molasses: retards crystallization too, by altering the ratio of glucose to fructose. Brown sugar, a diluted form of molasses, which is basically refined sugar crystals thinly coated with molasses. 

bullet

Honey: has a non-crystallization property, and can therefore be used in confectioneries to maintain a soft, smooth consistency.

bullet

Fats - Butter, fats, heavy cream and evaporated milk (milk proteins), egg whites, cocoa and chocolate solids: coat the crystals and slow their growth. Make syrup more viscous so cook to a slightly lower end point temperature.

bullet

Gelatin: The starch swells in water. The swelling forms a stress on the sugar crystal structure. Enough stress will change the basic chemical structure of the sugar at certain temperature ranges. When the syrup turns from clear to opaque the crystalline structure has disappeared and a jelly or gum has occurred. 

Start with clean bowls, pans and utensils: The first step to keeping any candy from crystallizing is to start with clean, dry bowls, pans and utensils. Having a foreign object in the pan, like old, dried caramel or dirt, will cause crystals to congregate and grow.  

As you boil the sugar it gets hotter, liquefies and the added water evaporates. As a result, the syrup becomes more concentrated and its color changes. 

During cooking, the sugar syrup starts out clear, then turns to golden, light brown in color and starts to caramelize at 320 degrees F. It further darkens to a medium brown at 350 degrees F. As the color intensifies, so does the flavor, with medium brown color having the most caramel flavor. But, if it turns black in color, which happens at over 350 degrees F, the sugar syrup becomes bitter. As the color and flavor become more intense, the texture becomes softer when cooled. Sugar caramelized to a pale straw color hardens into a glasslike sheet whereas the darker the color a caramel recipe is made, the more chewy and soft it becomes. 

The cooking sugar syrup has to be watched like a hawk, as temperature changes happen quickly. I once determined that it only took about 15 seconds for the sugar solution to go from clear to light amber in the caramel stage.

In addition, introducing the mixture with sugar crystals (seeding) from a thermometer or spoon can start the crystallization process. These utensils should be cleaned and dried between uses and the pan should not be scraped. The thermometer should only be placed in the pot at the appropriate time.

If your candy recipe is starting to burn, you'll see small brown flakes come to the surface. This does not mean the cooking time is over, it only means your burner is too hot and has to be turned down. A small amount of flakes is okay and won't affect the ultimate taste or texture. Scorching for long periods of time leads to "caramelization" in which your sugar starts to convert itself back to a form more like molasses.  

Dissolve the sugar completely. If one tiny speck of a sugar crystal that hasn't been dissolved falls into the mixture during cooking, the whole batch will return to a solid state, ruining it. 

Place the sugar in the pot by pouring it in the center. You don't want a lot of unwanted crystals to adhere to the sides. Pour in the water, washing the sides of the pan as you do. Mix the sugar and water together with your finger, by drawing an "X" across the sugar. You can also combine further, but avoid touching the sides with the sugar.

Never stir your candy after the sugar crystals are completely dissolved in the water and when it has started boiling - this will incite the formation of big crystals that will make your candy grainy when it cools.

Keep the sides of the pan clean at all times: To ensure all crystals are off the side of the pan, oil the sides of your pan right up to sugar syrup's water line before you begin cooking. Because the fat is slippery, the crystals won't cling to the sides of the pan. 

After dissolving the sugar crystals and before boiling, you can also get rid of unwanted crystals on the side of the pan by: brushing the sides of the pan with a heatproof pastry brush dipped in water or by leaving the cover on the pan so steam forms, condenses and then washes off the side of the pan.  

Chocolate: Cocoa butter crystals make melted chocolate solidify, but if not heated properly, called tempering or melting, it will seize returning to its original crystalline structure and dry state.

Sugar crystallization also occurs when moisture accumulates on the surface of a hardened chocolate confection and the sugar is drawn up. This condition is called sugar bloom, which is visible as white streaks and dots and grainy texture.

Concentrating the solution to the appropriate degree. Candy solutions are boiled to a particular temperature and color, which are recorded on a Sugar Syrup Chart. During this process, the water evaporates and sugar in the solution becomes more concentrated. When the concentration of sugar increases, the boiling point of the solution also increases. As the temperature is raised, the solubility of the sugar increases and more can be held in solution making the mixture unstable and more prone to crystallizing at the wrong time. 

Supersaturating the syrup to the appropriate degree. During cooking, the sugar solution is becoming supersaturated or it holds more sugar in the solution than normal, with the molecules pressing against one another, making the solution unstable. Because of their tight proximity to one another, the least agitation will make them return to their original crystalline structure. 

Did you ever make homemade rock candy as a kid ? Here's where you can see the process of crystallization at work. Without stirring or interfering agents, sugar molecules will continue to clump and the crystals will increase in size as long as they are immersed. You can also add in: 1/2 tsp Food Coloring, 1/2 tsp oil based flavoring: Lemon, Spearmint, Wintergreen, Cinnamon, Citric Acid, etc.

ROCK CANDY

5 cups Sugar (granulated white sugar) 
2 cups Water

Punch holes at the top edge of a thin 8" square pan and lace about 7 strings from one side to the other. Stretch the strings so that they don't touch the bottom of the pan. Place this pan into another pan deep enough to catch any leaking syrup.

Dissolve sugar in water and cook without stirring to about hard ball stage (247 - 252 degrees F) over medium heat. Pour syrup into laced pan. It should reach a level about 3/4" above the strings. Cover the surface with a piece of foil. Watch and wait. The syrup sometimes takes a week to crystallize. Lift out the laced pan. Cut the strings and dislodge the rock candy. Rinse quickly in cold water and put on racks in a very low oven to dry.

Recipes will point out that the candy should not be disturbed; agitation may initiate the crystallization process. Large crystals would form and the candy would look and feel gritty and sandy. Sometimes this is referred to as "sugaring." However, bumping into the pan, picking it up and moving it or stirring at the wrong time cause unwanted crystals.

Stirring or Agitation: crystallizing gives the desired size of sugar crystals, unless done at the wrong time. Whether fudge has a grainy or smooth texture is determined by controlling the sugar crystallization through stirring, beating or kneading. 

Whether you stir the sugar syrup or not during cooking or afterwards is determined by the type of candy being made. Each recipe has its own specific mixing instructions that are important to follow carefully. If candy is agitated at temperatures higher than recommended, the crystals formed will be very large, adversely affecting the texture of the finished recipe. 

If it's necessary to cool quickly before pouring, the recipe will direct you to set the bottom of the pan in a bowl of cold water for 30 seconds. When pouring the hot sugar syrup, wear a long sleeved shirt and hot mitts on both hands. Start pouring the sugar syrup in the middle of the marble slab or silpat mat. If you are nervous, wedge a cutting board between yourself and the countertop to act as a guard, so if any splashes it won't go on you. Do not scrape the bottom of the pan while removing its contents, unless specified. 

If the syrup is cooled and not stirred, it is a saturated solution. Then when you stir it, millions of tiny crystals form resulting in a smooth texture. With rapid stirring, more baby crystals are formed which is perfect when making Fudge or other creamy candies.    

As you stir, the candy will begin to lose its glossy appearance, becoming somewhat opaque and lighter in color. As crystallization proceeds, the candy will become much thicker and cease to flow. At this point, crystallization is complete and candy should be removed from the pan as quickly as possible.

QUESTION: Why didn't my candy set up right?

ANSWER: There could be a couple of problems. If the air is too humid, candy can turn out too soft or have that gooey sheen on its surface. Candy needs to be made on a dry day. Your pans, bowls and utensils should be clean and dry before you begin. Moisture in bowls can affect whether candy gets firm, and flecks of sugar or other particles can affect the way it crystallizes. When candy isn't cooked to the proper temperature, this type of problem also arises. Use a candy thermometer for best results. 

When the temperature and color of the sugar solution is reached, as specified in the recipe, the pan is immediately removed from the heat. (Note that the temperature of the mixture continues to rise even after it has been removed, so some recipes have you quickly cool the mixture by placing the pot in ice water). 

Optionally, cream, nuts, etc. can be added all at once and quickly combined with a clean and dry wooden spoon. With the addition of a liquid, such as cream, which causes the darkening sugar to bubble up violently for a few seconds. Stir madly and it will settle down into a creamy, golden syrup that can be made even more tasty with the addition of vanilla or other flavorings. 

When done, the candy mixture is cooled by pouring its contents onto a marble slab, silpat mat or into a glass bowl or into a pan or mold to harden. (Do not scrape the bottom of the pan while removing its contents, unless specified.) Cooling is important in determining the size of the crystals. If you cool the sugar syrup quickly after you boil it to a known heat, the candy forms as a crystalline or brittle type such as rock candy. At a bit slower cooling after boiling at the same temperature, the candy forms a non-crystalline structure known as a taffy or caramel.  If you stir a concentrated sugar syrup only occasionally, while hot, few crystals form. They become bigger as the mixture cools. Upon cooling, the sugar can crystallize into several small crystals or one large mass, depending upon what's being made. This is not desirable for fudge, because it will have a gritty texture. 

Here are some examples of cooling instructions -- (by the way, stirring cools a mixture): The cooking can be stopped in a number of ways, and is done depending upon the type of candy being made. When done the right way, it's ready to savor or to give as a gift !!

bulletFudge–A creamy, smooth confection. In fudge, milk and an agent such as corn syrup are used to help keep the texture smooth. The candy is also beaten after a cooling period. An important point to watch is the temperature before beating. If stirring or beating is started too soon, the candy will be less smooth. Once beating is started it should not be interrupted. In the beating process, the candy will go through interesting changes in appearance. At first it will be shiny and quite thin. As beating continues, the shininess will begin to disappear and by the end of the beating period, it will be lusterless and, of course, thick. (Caramel and Butterscotch are made in similar ways to toffee, as is fudge). 
bulletNougat–Chewy candy is made by adding syrup to stiffly beaten egg whites, then stirring in nuts, usually chopped almonds. Commercially made nougats are poured onto a marble slab and covered with wafer paper, then pressed to form smooth surfaces. Since wafer paper is not always readily available, a light dusting of cornstarch may be substituted. Nougats should stand for several hours before cutting.
bulletBrittle–There are two ways of making this hard candy. One is to caramelize sugar in a pan over low heat until melted and golden brown, then add nuts. A second way is to cook syrup in a pan to the hard-crack stage, then add butter and soda to make a tender, more porous brittle. In either case nuts are added when cooking is completed. The mixture is poured immediately so that the candy is 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick; sometimes it is pulled even thinner as it begins to harden. When hard, it is cracked into pieces. Sometimes it is spread with chocolate and sprinkled with nuts and allowed to cool until the chocolate firms up and then cracked into pieces.
bulletMarshmallows–These are very simple to make because there is no cooking involved. However, the mixture must be beaten for 15 minutes and a good electric mixer is necessary.
bulletChocolate–Correct tempering and handling of chocolate is a fine art. To master it completely requires a thorough knowledge of its physical properties, and its reactions to melting, cooling and handling. The easiest chocolate candies to make are chocolate truffles.
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Fondant–Forms the basic foundation of after-dinner mints, peppermint patties and chocolate-covered cherries. Fondant is made simply of sugar and water; however, cream of tartar or corn syrup is frequently added to help control the size of the crystals that form during cooling. As the Fondant cools, it becomes supersaturated. At this point, the solute (sugar) in the solution is unstable, since it contains more solute than it could normally hold at that temperature. When you agitate the mixture, the extra sucrose (the amount above the normal saturated solution) will crystallize out causing graininess. However, if beaten appropriately, the mixture will form a smooth, creamy, crystalline Fondant.

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