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MAKING CANDY & THE
ROLE OF SUGAR CRYSTALS |
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Always
make candy on a cool, dry day. Heat, rain and humidity, as well
as altitude, can affect how candy
turns out (caramel syrup can made made, however) -- cooking time can
increase substantially or the sugar may never set up at all. This is
because sugar attracts water.
I usually try to check out the weather, but
if I can't, then I do this little "thing" that I have done for years: I
press my chin down to my chest and then lift. If it sticks then the humidity
is high, if not, it isn't. |
The most
common crystal, table sugar, is a component in many candies because so many
things can be done with it.
Sugars (sucrose) are composed of simple molecules of one glucose
and one fructose molecule bonded together. Identical sugar molecules arrange
themselves in orderly geometric patterns repeated over and over again which
can't be seen with the naked eye. But the underlying atomic nature of sugar
results in its crystalline form.
Candies are formed by adding sugar
(a solute) to water (a solvent), called a sugar solution, and boiling the
mixture to a codified temperature or density
that ranges from 215 to 356 degrees F, measured with a Candy Thermometer.
This high heat dissolves the sugar, evaporates the water and breaks apart the
sugar's molecules. As a result, you get a greater concentration of the sugar,
eventually reaching a supersaturation of the sugar molecules in the water.
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Sugar is boiled
in one of three different
ways: the 2 classic methods, being wet (sugar and water) or dry (sugar
alone) and a third method using the
microwave. |
When broken apart and concentrated
in a supersaturated solution, sugar molecules are unstable. They want to come
back together again at any chance to return to their previous crystalline
structure. An unclean pot, any jarring or stirring of the supersaturated
solution at the wrong time, can send them back to their original crystalline
pattern and dry state, crystallizing the mixture and ruining the whole candy
batch. There are many ways to
control unwanted crystallization, depending on the recipe.
The secret to
making different types of candy lies in attaining the correct concentration of
the supersaturated solution through heat and then controlling the
recrystallization of the sugar crystals.
This results in two categories of candy:
Crystalline and Non-crystalline.
Here candy can range from the soft textures
of caramels and fudges, where crystallization is minimized, to hard candies
where crystallization results in a desired grainy or crystalline structure.
The
different heating levels determine the types of candy: high temperatures
make hard candy, medium will make soft candy and low makes chewy candy.
Sugar cooked to 300 degrees F
is going to be harder than sugar cooked to 290 degrees F.
That's because at higher temperatures the
sugar syrup is more concentrated because it allows for more sugar to
dissolve and the water to evaporate, which becomes less so as the
temperature drops. |
Recrystallization of the sugar's
molecules are influenced by the temperature and density to which the sugar
solution is boiled to, whether or not other ingredients are added, such as
cream, butter, corn syrup, etc. and
when and how fast the solution is cooled, or
whether or not it is stirred or kneaded.
As a result, you can create a wide
variety of candies, that all start with
a simple, boiled sugar and water solution,
that will satisfy the particular cravings of anyone with a sweet tooth.
For example, for a more crystalline candy like
Fudge or
Fondant, the mixture is boiled to
234 - 240 degrees F and
then set aside to cool slowly. Then it is stirred again to break crystals
into smaller pieces, making the fudge smooth and creamy. When making rock candy,
the solution is cooked to 247
- 252 degrees F and not stirred during cooling, allowing
large sugar crystals to form. To make hard candy like lollipops, the solution is
heated to 300 - 310 degrees F and cooled quickly.
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Crystalline
Candies:
(Formulas)
Crystalline
candies
can be subdivided into two groups a) candies with crystals you can see, such
as rock candy, and b) cream candies in which crystals are too small to be
detected by the tongue, such as fondant and fudge. Aside from rock candy and
certain types of sugar, crystal coatings are desirable on candies such as
bon-bons and gum drops and cream candies.
Crystalline candies are cooked to between
234 and 240 degrees F.
Ingredients and procedures
can help this process. "Interfering
agents" are ingredients
which prevent the growth of large crystals. For instance, when making
fondant, cream of tarter is added with the sugar to produce an invert sugar
which inhibits large crystals from forming.
In other recipes glucose
in the form of corn syrup is used to aid in controlling crystal formation.
Fondant creams used for the center of dipped chocolates use fats to add
richness of flavor but also to ensure small crystal formation. Some
chocolate fudge recipes include marshmallow creme as an ingredient because
it is a non-crystalline candy and acts as interfering agent |
NOTE:
Divinity is a crystalline candy
but is a special case as the crystals are dispersed in a foam. |
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Non-crystalline
Candies (amorphous):
(Formulas)
Non-crystalline
candies are simpler to make. The goal is to stop crystallization from
happening as these candies are cooked to a higher temperature
than
crystallized candies,
"Interfering
agents" are added which
prevent the growth of large crystals or prevent crystallization
such as invert sugar, which
is molasses or corn syrup, and/or an acid, such a lemon juice, cream of
tartar or vinegar. Even the addition of fats and egg whites coat crystals
and prevent their growth.
Many of the
non-crystalline candies are poured out of pan immediately after cooking
because they harden quickly. Candies such as toffee and brittles rapidly
solidify on cooling and produce a rigid mass that prevents formation of
highly organized crystals. Amorphous candies are made from highly dehydrated
sugar syrups--as soon as they begin to cool, the sugar crystallizes out of
the solution before the sugar molecules have time to move close to other
sugar molecules to form ordered arrangements. |
NOTE: Marshmallows and gum
drops are also special classes of candies as they contain a gelling
substance. |
Recrystallization
is a process that has been used to purify solid material by dissolving the
solid (called a solute) in an appropriate liquid (called a
solvent) and then having the material come out of solution in
crystalline form. Depending upon conditions, one may obtain a mass of many
small crystals or one large crystal. |
Unwanted
crystallization can occur at any time during the making of sugar candy, ruining
the recipe. That's because sugar crystals look for any excuse during the candy
making process to return to their original, dry and stable state.
Crystallization at the wrong
time can be obvious early on when the sugar solution becomes cloudy or the whole
mixture will literally freeze turning into a crackled mess.
Sometimes crystallization is
found when it's too late, such as when biting into
fudge or caramel and
you find its texture is like sand.
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In the 17th century, French candy-makers had
discovered that fat has the handy property of getting in the way of
crystallization. Acid ingredients accomplish much the same thing--in the
18th century, adding an acid such as cream of tartar to sugar syrup was
called "greasing" it -- by breaking some of the sucrose molecules into
glucose and fructose sugar, thereby cluttering up the solution for would-be
crystals.
Probably it also explains why a lot of
old-time butterscotch recipes call for acidic ingredients, such as a little
vinegar or lemon juice, and maybe even how a bit of lemon peel flavor came
to be traditional in English butterscotch candies. |
However, sugar
cannot start to crystallize at the wrong time without something to serve as a
seed, pattern, or nucleus. It takes only ONE little, tiny crystal at the side of
the pan, introduced from an outside source, to act as a seed, causing nearby
crystals to follow the leader, ruining the whole batch. Here are some ways to
prevent it:
Interfering
Agents: Ordered crystallization in
non-crystalline candy or an interference with crystal growth in crystalline
candy is prevented by ingredients.
These ingredients are called interfering agents.
You'll sometimes see an interferring agent(s)
used in candy recipes to help
stop premature crystallization and to affect the size and amount of crystals
that form when the sugar recrystallizes.
One way to prevent the
crystallization of sucrose in candy is to make sure that there are other types
of sugar—usually, fructose and glucose—to get in the way. Large crystals of
sucrose have a harder time forming when molecules of fructose and glucose are
around. Crystals form something like Legos locking together, except that instead
of Lego pieces, there are molecules. If some of the molecules are a different
size and shape, they won’t fit together, and a crystal doesn’t form.
A simple way to get other types of
sugar into the mix is to "invert" the sucrose (the basic white sugar you know
well) by adding an acid to the recipe. Acids such as lemon juice or cream of
tartar cause sucrose to break up (or invert) into its two simpler components,
fructose and glucose. For
example, most fudge recipes contain either corn syrup (which contains glucose
instead of the sucrose of table sugar) or cream of tartar (which breaks sucrose
into glucose and fructose).
Another way is to add a nonsucrose
sugar to a candy recipe, such as corn syrup, which is mainly glucose. Some
lollipop recipes use as much as 50% corn syrup; this is to prevent sugar
crystals from ruining the texture.
Fats in candy serve a similar
purpose. Fatty ingredients such as butter help interfere with crystallization —
again, by getting in the way of the sucrose molecules that are trying to lock
together into crystals. Toffee owes its smooth texture and easy breakability to
an absence of sugar crystals, thanks to a large amount of butter in the mix.
Other interfering
agents such as cream, milk, or cocoa powder also help prevent unwanted
crystallization and also add flavor and interest. But, remember these
ingredients do not entirely stop the unwanted crystallization process.
Check
candy formulas
to see what types of interfering agents are used. For
example:
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Corn syrup:
contains glucose instead of the sucrose of table sugar.
In
caramels, brittles or
hard candy, you want to prevent
crystallization and their recipes contain enough corn syrup or acids to do
this. |
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Cream of tartar:
breaks sucrose into glucose and fructose. If adding acid, cooking time
is critical - too short, coarse and grainy candy
/ too long, too soft |
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Brown sugar, molasses:
retards crystallization
too, by altering the ratio of glucose to fructose. Brown sugar, a diluted form
of molasses, which is basically refined sugar crystals thinly coated with
molasses. |
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Honey:
has a non-crystallization property, and can therefore be used in
confectioneries to maintain a soft, smooth consistency. |
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Fats - Butter,
fats, heavy cream and evaporated
milk (milk proteins),
egg whites, cocoa and chocolate
solids: coat the
crystals and slow their growth. Make syrup more viscous
so cook to a slightly lower end point temperature. |
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Gelatin:
The starch swells in water.
The swelling forms a stress on the sugar crystal structure. Enough stress will
change the basic chemical structure of the sugar at certain temperature
ranges. When the syrup turns from clear to opaque the crystalline structure
has disappeared and a jelly or gum has occurred. |
Start with clean bowls, pans and
utensils: The
first step to keeping any candy from crystallizing is to start with clean, dry
bowls, pans and utensils. Having
a foreign object in the pan, like old, dried caramel or dirt, will cause
crystals to congregate and grow.
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As
you boil the sugar it gets hotter, liquefies and the added water evaporates.
As a result, the syrup becomes more concentrated and its color changes.
During cooking, the
sugar syrup starts out clear, then turns to
golden, light brown in color and starts to caramelize at 320 degrees F. It
further darkens to a medium brown at 350 degrees F. As the color
intensifies, so does the flavor, with medium brown color having the most
caramel flavor. But, if it turns black in color, which happens at over 350
degrees F, the sugar syrup becomes bitter. As the color and flavor become
more intense, the texture becomes softer when cooled. Sugar caramelized to a
pale straw color hardens into a glasslike sheet whereas the darker the color
a caramel recipe is made, the more chewy and soft it becomes.
The cooking sugar syrup has
to be watched like a hawk, as temperature changes happen quickly. I once
determined that it only took about 15 seconds for the sugar solution to go
from clear to light amber in the
caramel
stage. |
In addition, introducing the
mixture with sugar crystals (seeding) from a thermometer or spoon can start the
crystallization process. These utensils should be cleaned and dried between uses
and the pan should not be scraped. The thermometer should only be placed in the
pot at the appropriate time.
If
your candy recipe is starting to burn, you'll see small brown flakes come to
the surface. This does not mean the cooking time is over, it only
means your burner is too hot and has to be turned down. A small amount of
flakes is okay and won't affect the ultimate taste or texture. Scorching for
long periods of time leads to "caramelization" in which your sugar starts to
convert itself back to a form more like molasses. |
Dissolve the sugar completely.
If one tiny speck
of a sugar crystal that hasn't been dissolved falls into the mixture during
cooking, the whole batch will return to a solid state, ruining it.
Place the sugar in the pot by
pouring it in the center. You don't want a lot of unwanted crystals to adhere to
the sides. Pour in the water, washing the sides of the pan as you do. Mix the
sugar and water together with your finger, by drawing an "X" across the sugar.
You can also combine further, but avoid touching the sides with the sugar.
Never stir your
candy after the sugar crystals are completely dissolved in the water and when it
has started boiling - this will incite the formation of big crystals that will
make your candy grainy when it cools.
Keep the sides of the pan clean at all times:
To ensure all crystals are
off the side of the pan, oil the sides of your
pan right up to sugar syrup's water line before you begin cooking.
Because the fat is
slippery, the crystals won't cling to the sides of the pan.
After dissolving the sugar
crystals and before boiling, you can also get rid of unwanted crystals on the
side of the pan by: brushing the sides of the pan with a heatproof pastry
brush dipped in water or by leaving
the cover on the pan so steam forms, condenses and then washes off the side of
the pan.
Chocolate:
Cocoa butter crystals make melted chocolate solidify,
but if not heated properly, called
tempering or melting, it will
seize returning to its original crystalline structure and dry state.,
Sugar crystallization also
occurs when moisture accumulates on the surface of a hardened chocolate
confection and the sugar is drawn up. This condition is called
sugar bloom, which is visible as
white streaks and dots and grainy texture. |
Concentrating the solution to the appropriate degree.
Candy solutions are boiled to a particular
temperature and color, which
are recorded on a Sugar Syrup Chart.
During this process, the water evaporates
and sugar in the solution becomes more concentrated. When the concentration of
sugar increases, the boiling point of the solution also increases. As the
temperature is raised, the solubility of the sugar increases and more can be
held in solution making the mixture unstable and more prone to crystallizing at
the wrong time.
Supersaturating the syrup to the
appropriate degree. During
cooking, the sugar solution is becoming supersaturated or it holds more sugar in
the solution than normal, with the molecules pressing against one another,
making the solution unstable. Because
of their tight proximity to one another, the least agitation will make them
return to their original crystalline structure.
Did
you ever make homemade rock candy
as a kid ? Here's where you can see the process of crystallization at work.
Without
stirring or interfering agents,
sugar molecules will continue to clump and the crystals will increase in
size as long as they are immersed. You can also add in: 1/2 tsp Food
Coloring, 1/2 tsp oil based flavoring:
Lemon, Spearmint, Wintergreen, Cinnamon, Citric Acid, etc.
ROCK CANDY
5 cups Sugar (granulated white sugar)
2 cups Water
Punch holes at the top edge
of a thin 8" square pan and lace about 7 strings from one side to the other.
Stretch the strings so that they don't touch the bottom of the pan. Place
this pan into another pan deep enough to catch any leaking syrup.
Dissolve sugar in water and
cook without stirring to about hard ball stage (247 - 252 degrees F) over
medium heat. Pour syrup into laced pan. It should reach a level about 3/4"
above the strings. Cover the surface with a piece of foil. Watch and wait.
The syrup sometimes takes a week to crystallize. Lift out the laced pan. Cut
the strings and dislodge the rock candy. Rinse quickly in cold water and put
on racks in a very low oven to dry. |
Recipes will point
out that the candy should not be disturbed; agitation may initiate the
crystallization process. Large crystals would form and the candy would look and
feel gritty and sandy. Sometimes this is referred to as "sugaring." However,
bumping into the pan, picking it up and moving it or stirring at the wrong time
cause unwanted crystals.
Stirring or Agitation:
crystallizing gives the desired size of sugar crystals, unless done at the wrong
time. Whether fudge has a grainy or
smooth texture is determined by controlling the sugar crystallization through
stirring, beating or kneading.
Whether you stir the
sugar syrup or not during cooking or afterwards is determined by the type of
candy being made. Each recipe has its own specific mixing instructions that are
important to follow carefully. If candy is agitated at temperatures higher than
recommended, the crystals formed will be very large, adversely affecting the
texture of the finished recipe.
If
it's necessary to cool quickly before pouring, the recipe will direct you to
set the bottom of the pan in a bowl of cold water for 30 seconds. When
pouring the hot sugar syrup, wear a long sleeved shirt and hot mitts on both
hands. Start pouring the sugar syrup in the middle of the marble slab or
silpat mat. If you are nervous, wedge a cutting board between yourself and
the countertop to act as a guard, so if any splashes it won't go on you. Do
not scrape the bottom of the pan while removing its contents, unless
specified. |
If the syrup is
cooled and not stirred, it is a saturated solution. Then when you stir it,
millions of tiny crystals form resulting in a smooth texture. With rapid
stirring, more baby crystals are formed which is perfect when making
Fudge
or other creamy candies.
As you stir, the
candy will begin to lose its glossy appearance, becoming somewhat opaque and
lighter in color. As crystallization proceeds, the candy will become much
thicker and cease to flow. At this point, crystallization is complete and candy
should be removed from the pan as quickly as possible.
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QUESTION:
Why didn't my candy set up right?
ANSWER:
There could be a couple of problems. If the air
is too humid, candy can turn out too soft or have that gooey sheen on its
surface. Candy needs to be made on a dry day. Your pans, bowls and utensils
should be clean and dry before you begin. Moisture in bowls can affect
whether candy gets firm, and flecks of sugar or other particles can affect
the way it crystallizes. When candy isn't cooked to the proper temperature,
this type of problem also arises. Use a candy thermometer for best results. |
When the temperature
and color of the sugar solution is reached, as specified in the recipe, the pan
is immediately removed from the heat. (Note that the temperature of the mixture
continues to rise even after it has been removed, so some recipes have you
quickly cool the mixture by placing the pot in ice water).
Optionally, cream,
nuts, etc. can be added all at once and quickly combined with a clean and dry
wooden spoon. With the addition of a liquid, such as cream, which causes the
darkening sugar to bubble up violently for a few seconds. Stir madly and it will
settle down into a creamy, golden syrup that can be made even more tasty with
the addition of vanilla or other flavorings.
When done, the candy mixture is
cooled by pouring its contents onto a
marble slab, silpat mat or into a glass
bowl or into a pan or
mold to harden. (Do
not scrape the bottom of the pan while removing its contents, unless
specified.) Cooling is important in determining the size of the crystals.
If you cool the sugar syrup quickly after you boil it to a known heat, the candy
forms as a crystalline or brittle type such as rock candy. At a bit slower
cooling after boiling at the same temperature, the candy forms a non-crystalline
structure known as a taffy or caramel. If you stir a concentrated sugar
syrup only occasionally, while hot, few crystals form. They become bigger as the
mixture cools. Upon cooling, the sugar can crystallize into several small
crystals or one large mass, depending upon what's being made. This is not
desirable for fudge, because it will have a gritty texture.
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Here are
some examples of cooling instructions -- (by the way, stirring cools a
mixture): The
cooking can be stopped in a number of ways, and is done depending upon the
type of candy being made. When done the right way, it's ready to savor or
to give as a gift !!
 | Fudge–A creamy,
smooth confection. In fudge, milk and an agent such as corn syrup are
used to help keep the texture smooth. The candy is also beaten after a
cooling period. An important point to watch is the temperature before
beating. If stirring or beating is started too soon, the candy will be
less smooth. Once beating is started it should not be interrupted. In
the beating process, the candy will go through interesting changes in
appearance. At first it will be shiny and quite thin. As beating
continues, the shininess will begin to disappear and by the end of the
beating period, it will be lusterless and, of course, thick.
(Caramel and Butterscotch
are made in similar ways to toffee, as is fudge). |
 | Nougat–Chewy
candy is made by adding syrup to stiffly beaten egg whites, then
stirring in nuts, usually chopped almonds. Commercially made nougats are
poured onto a marble slab and covered with wafer paper, then pressed to
form smooth surfaces. Since wafer paper is not always readily available,
a light dusting of cornstarch may be substituted. Nougats should stand
for several hours before cutting. |
 | Brittle–There
are two ways of making this hard candy. One is to caramelize sugar in a
pan over low heat until melted and golden brown, then add nuts. A second
way is to cook syrup in a pan to the hard-crack stage, then add butter
and soda to make a tender, more porous brittle. In either case nuts are
added when cooking is completed. The mixture is poured immediately so
that the candy is 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick; sometimes it is pulled even
thinner as it begins to harden. When hard, it is cracked into pieces.
Sometimes it is spread with chocolate and sprinkled with nuts and
allowed to cool until the chocolate firms up and then cracked into
pieces. |
 | Marshmallows–These
are very simple to make because there is no cooking involved. However,
the mixture must be beaten for 15 minutes and a good electric mixer is
necessary. |
 | Chocolate–Correct
tempering and handling of chocolate is a fine art. To master it
completely requires a thorough knowledge of its physical properties, and
its reactions to melting, cooling and handling. The easiest chocolate
candies to make are chocolate truffles. |
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Fondant–Forms
the basic foundation of after-dinner mints, peppermint patties and
chocolate-covered cherries. Fondant is made simply of sugar and water;
however, cream of tartar or corn syrup is frequently added to help
control the size of the crystals that form during cooling.
As the Fondant cools, it becomes
supersaturated. At this point, the solute (sugar) in the solution is
unstable, since it contains more solute than it could normally hold at
that temperature. When you agitate the mixture, the extra sucrose (the
amount above the normal saturated solution) will crystallize out causing
graininess. However, if beaten appropriately, the mixture will form a
smooth, creamy, crystalline Fondant. |
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