The biggest
concern to most bakers is to bake a cheesecake that doesn't crack, shrink, leak
water or "weep", become flat and too dense or dry.
I know because I receive a lot of
questions from home bakers
wanting to know why. There probably isn't any one reason, but certain baking
tips and methods, described below, help.
I'd be willing to bet that
9 out of 10 cheesecake problems stem from the fact that cooks expect cheesecake
to act like cake. Why wouldn't they? After all it is cheese CAKE.
But, a cheesecake is
actually a
baked custard
and has to be handled as such.
Custards range from being the entire dessert, such
as a Cheesecake,
Crème Brûlée or
Flan,
Pumpkin or Coconut custard pies, to being a part of a dessert such as
Pastry Cream used when making
éclairs and cream puffs. All
custards are a thick,
rich, creamy and
pudding-like
dessert made from gently
cooking or baking. The ingredients
are mixed rather than being beaten together so they don't puff and then fall
during baking.
The
eggs in custards play a central role. Both egg
yolks and whites contain proteins, which change from liquid to solid, called
coagulation, when cooked or baked. This means that the
liquid egg becomes firmer. As heating continues the egg eventually becomes
semi-gelled or fully gelled when cooled or refrigerated, giving you the
cheesecake's texture.
It's the eggs and dairy, such as cream or
cream cheese, in custards and cheesecakes that make these desserts hard to
prepare. Because cheesecakes contain
sensitive-to-heat eggs and cream cheese, they need to be baked "low and slow",
with even temperatures. A typical oven temperature to bake it in is usually
around 325 degrees F if the cheesecake contains starch, such as flour or
cornstarch. If it doesn't, the cheesecake's pan and baked in a
waterbath in a 325 degrees F
oven. During baking, the water that surrounds the cheesecake is actually at 212
degree F. This allows it to bake evenly with little cracking, sinking or
collapsing in the cheesecake's center.
Cheesecakes are among the most frequently
overcooked foods because they are the most deceptive when trying to figure out
when they are done baking.
When it's done, it never LOOKS done.
To test if a cheesecake is done baking, gently shake the pan. The top of the
cake should move as one solid piece, but its center
should still be wobbly (not soupy) in about a 3-inch circle in the center. You
may be removing the cheesecake from the oven a little earlier than the recipe
suggests, but
baking times are not always exact due to variations
in ovens.
ONCE MY CHEESECAKE
CRACKS, WHAT CAN I DO?: If your cheesecake develops one or more
cracks, you can gloss over the problem in several ways.
Use toppings, glazes, frostings or
various fruits to cover the cake.
(More topping ideas).
You can prepare a sour cream topping (mix two
cups sour cream, one teaspoon vanilla and two tablespoons sugar). Spread over
top, filling in the problem areas, and bake in a 325 degree F oven for 10
minutes if warm, 14-15 minutes if the cheesecake is cool.
Or cover with fruit and sprigs of fresh mint. Remember
that they should be applied to a well chilled cheesecake.
Or make a jam glaze. Stir one-half teaspoon
cornstarch into one cup apricot, red currant or seedless raspberry jam. Place in
medium saucepan and melt on low heat, stirring frequently. Increase heat and
bring to a boil. Remove from heat and stir in one tablespoon orange liqueur;
strain. Pour over cheesecake. Top with pomegranate seeds, if desired.
Or slice the cheesecake in the kitchen, avoiding
the crack. No one will know.
Should your
cake have cracks, after it cools, smooth away cracks and flaws with a warmed,
wet, sharp knife. Simply dip the knife in hot water and then make the repairs.
When repairing cracks in chocolate cheesecakes, use a warm, dry knife, the water
will discolor the chocolate if the knife is wet. Dip knife in water, quickly dry
it off and repair!
Or do what I
do -- simply serve your homemade cheesecake with pride!
SOLUTION TO A FALLEN CHEESECAKE:
You don't want to beat excess air into the eggs in
the batter by whipping, as it will cause the cheesecake to puff in the oven and
then fall when removed. This leads to a flat cheesecake, the top browning too
much and a tough texture.
During baking these air bubbles expand, but since
there is no flour to support them they burst upon cooling and the center
collapses as all soufflés do eventually.
When mixing a cheesecake recipe, always use a low
speed with an electric mixer with the paddle attachment or mix by hand, taking
special care not to whip air into the batter.
When the ingredients are just combined, turn off
the mixer. Pour in your batter into the crust.
Remember to scrape your bowl so that no lumps of
cream cheese surprise you in the end! And, also wipe off the paddle. And you can
see there's still some chunks of the cream cheese in there.
But, before you go to the oven, run a butter knife through the
batter in an "S" shape to help you get all of the air bubbles out. And if any
float up to the top but don't break on their own, give them a little bit of
help.
WHAT IF MY CHEESECAKE WEEPS WATER?:
Because the proteins in the eggs in the recipe denature when cooked, and form a
molecular mesh, this is what makes a solid cheesecake possible. The problem is
if they get too hot or if they heat too quickly, these proteins over-coagulate.
That is they tighten up and they can literally wring all the moisture out of the
cheesecake. You can see it if your cheesecake is studded with tiny pinholes,
with water coming from it. Not very appetizing!
WHY IS MY CHEESECAKE SOGGY?:
Always be sure to cool cheesecake completely
before wrapping in foil or plastic wrap and then refrigerating. Chilling a warm
cheesecake will trap condensation in the cake and make it soggy.
MY CHEESECAKE IS TOUGH AND DRY. HELP!:
Incorporate your eggs into the cheesecake at the
slowest possible mixer speed and only until they're incorporated. Do not
overbake, otherwise you'll get a tough or dry cheesecake.
HOW DO I GET UNIFORM CHEESECAKES EDGES,
JUST LIKE IN A RESTAURANT OR BAKERY: I chill my
cheesecake in its springform pan in the fridge overnight. To remove the next
day, I run a thin bladed knife around the inside of the pan then release the
sides. This procedure usually gives me clean edges.
You may want to smooth the sides with a hot,
wet knife at this point or coat the sides with any leftover graham cracker
crumbs. Make up a mixture of the graham cracker crust
recipe (maybe half as much or less), spread it on a baking sheet and toast it
for 5 - 10 minutes in a preheated 350 degree oven. Remove form the oven and
allow to cool to room temperature. Lightly brush side of cheesecake with
slightly warmed apricot preserves or other flavors. Let set slightly and press
the crumb mixture around the sides to give the cake a uniform appearance.
Toasted nuts work just as well, as do cookie crumbs.
WHY DOES MY CHEESECAKE BATTER LEAK
FROM THE SPRINGFORM PAN?: It could be because the side was not
clamped onto the bottom properly, creating a seal. Also, make sure you always
press the crust mixture up the sides of the pan. It creates a wall or dam,
holding the batter in and preventing leaks.
MOM SAID IT
WAS IMPORTANT TO LEAVE THE CAKE IN THE OVEN TO COOL. IS THAT CORRECT?
I don't recommend
doing so on my website because the method is controversial; I can't risk someone
getting sick from my advice, so I stay away from certain baking topics. I
have to be on the safe side here!
But many moms, grandmothers and
recipes suggest that you can leave a cheesecake in an oven with the heat turned
off to cool after baking, which I call the oven cooling technique. The reason it
is done is because cheesecakes that are not baked in a waterbath are more
susceptible to cracking from temperature changes ie: taking it from a hot oven
to cool. Leavening it in an oven that has been turned off will gradually cool
the cheesecake and help to prevent cracks. You notice that recipes recommend
leaving it in an oven do not make use of a waterbath, which is more delicate
heat than an oven and never call for the oven cooling technique.
YOU SEEM TO
SUGGEST THAT THE CHEESECAKE SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM THE OVEN AS SOON AS ITS DONE.
IF I LEAVE IT IN WILL IT GET OVERDONE? If the
oven is turned on or it is left in a hot waterbath, yes it will overbake. When
done, immediately remove the cheesecake from the waterbath and let it cool in a
warm place such as on the oven's turned-off burner. Let the water in the oven
cool completely before removing.
YOU SAY
THAT ADDING A BIT OF STARCH (CORNSTARCH OR FLOUR) IN WITH THE SUGAR WILL HELP
MAINTAIN THE CHEESECAKE'S STRUCTURE. WILL IT ALSO AFFECT THE FLAVOR?
The flavor won't
be affected, but the texture will be slightly less custard-like.
WHY DON'T
ALL CHEESECAKE RECIPES CALL FOR STARCH IF IT HELPS?
Cheesecake recipes are old-fashioned and that's the way in
which it was done, even though the world has changed.
Cheesecakes are essentially custards and the baking of them is
tricky. From my research, I recommend using some starch (cornstarch) because its
molecules actually get in between the egg proteins preventing them from
over-coagulating. No over-coagulating, no cracks.
Most bakers today feel that a
perfect cheesecake is that made without cracks, recipes now call for help
--which comes from starch (cornstarch or flour). Besides, most of us are making
a lower fat cheesecake (10-15% fat) as compared to our Grandmother's 30% fat
cheesecake, which rarely cracked. (The lower fat cheese cakes are more likely to
crack than the higher fat ones.)
Plus, with today's trend to produce
larger and higher cheesecakes and to bake them without the benefit of a
waterbath, they tend to overbake at the edge before the center of the cake has
reached the temperature necessary to set (coagulate) the eggs. Here, your
cheesecake will tend to form deep cracks upon cooling. Starch helps to prevent
this.