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BREAD
TOPICS:
HOW TO
MAKE BASIC BREAD:
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FERMENTATION:
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What is fermentation?:
YEAST + SUGAR (from the flour's
starches and glucose and/or fructose) = Carbon dioxide (CO2) for Leavening
& Alcohol for Flavor |
A
starter is a fermented batch of flour and water, sometimes with additional
leavening, that eventually becomes a culture of wild/natural yeast. A sourdough
also encourages the development of Lactobacillus (bacteria), as well.
It is used to leaven and flavor a bread
recipe, but it also favorably affects crust (thickness and color), crumb
(texture), and shelf life.
Yeast also transforms sugars and starches
in the hydrated flour to be more digestable for humans as well as
transforms amino acids, liberated from the flour protein into aromatic alcoholic
compounds and esters with fruity flavors.
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The sourness of a given batch of
starter depends on the number of generations that have passed and mutated,
since the original starter was begun. Wild yeasts of fairly recent vintage
usually produces a not-so-sour dough and a bread that is not as leavened. It
is only when it is used and fed a couple of times that it becomes
increasingly sour and active.
The texture of the recipe also becomes more interesting the longer a starter
ferments. If it becomes bitter,
throw the starter away and start over again. |
All yeast, whether packaged or
wild, goes through a fermentation process. It begins when flour and water mixed
together and yeast, whether added or cultivated, feeds and ferments. It stops
when the bread is baked and the yeast die. An adequate food source, temperature
and conditions must be right in order for fermentation to take place. Temperatures
that are too hot will kill the yeast, so no carbon dioxide will be produced, but
freezing temperatures can be tolerated sometimes.
Unlike
commercial yeast (which likes an alkaline environment), wild yeast prefers
an acidic one. It has to in order to survive the lactic acids produced by
the Lactobacilli bacteria. Interestingly enough, this acid also serves to
lock out mold present in the air by poisoning the mixture, so it doesn't
become contaminated. |
To begin the fermentation
process, the yeast feeds on the hydrated flour's starches and converts it to
simple sugar (glucose) with an enzyme it contains. Both it and the bacteria
found in a sourdough, feed on the sugar plus any added from fructose and/or
glucose (fruit or honey), and multiply and grow. As by-products of the
feedings, which you can see and smell in about 3 days for a sourdough and and
hour or less for a sponge starter, the yeast (and Lactobacillus contributing
some) will start to give-off carbon dioxide bubbles (CO2) and alcohol (ethanol)
and the Lactobacillus, lactic and acetic acids. (Yeast does not produce
appreciable amounts of either lactic or acetic acids). The CO2 will eventually
leaven the bread recipe, with the alcohol and acids, contribute to a more
complex flavor and texture to the recipe. A sponge does not
have a characteristically acid taste that a sourdough bread has because of the
absence of Lactobacillus in its starter, as well as the length of time
fermented.
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There
are two schools of thought on how the bread rises. One says that "wild
yeast" in the air causes the bread to rise. The other school of thought says
that lactobacillus contributes to leavening, as well |
QUESTION:
I have been baking bread for
several years and have become proficient at it...I recently got a sourdough
starter... I have activated the starter and it seems to be healthy but not
real vigorous. I baked with it today and it was a total flop. The bread
never rose even the slightest bit after several hours. I followed all
instructions I have found such as feeding the night before, allowing plenty
of time to proof, etc. I was hoping you may know something about this and
could give me some pointers.
ANSWER:
I have made starters and sometimes
they do not work--it is a living organism and there are many variables at
work at once contributing to its success and failure. A couple of things in
your control is to make sure that you use distilled water--I once made a
starter with tap and the same thing happened to me. Water varies from place
to place and you can't always use it for sourdough. You may need to
sterilize all equipment being used because mold spores are different in
every area--and you never know how much they will affect your sourdough. I
hope this helps.
(More
about how to cultivate and ferment a starter) |
During the fermentation process,
you can see and smell it while it is happening right before you; as the
starter's ingredients ferment, the starter develops a characteristic sour odor
and bubbles. As the starter ferments, it changes to a light yellow color, from
white or another color depending upon the type of flour used. It smells
increasingly sour, alcoholy and yeasty from the by-products from the yeast and
bacteria's feedings and fermentation. The starter will also have a froth forming
on top or bubbles forming round the edges of the container from the carbon
dioxide.
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I must warn you that if the sponge or
dough
becomes too sour, the gluten will be degraded or what provides for the
bread's structure. This can happen from letting the sponge or dough sit too
long at a warm temperature. It is important to try to catch each stage at
its peak of yeast activity when it is foaming and bubbling and go on to the
next stage. |
Fermentation also causes what the
French call it "long kneading; i.e. you do nothing and the gluten is partially
developed in the starter which you see as strings when you stir it. The long
elastic strands of wheat protein, called gluten, are formed in it when wheat
flour is moistened and stirred. They become an elastic mesh, where the carbon
dioxide are trapped. The warmth of a rising place or the oven will expand the
air bubbles in the dough (and some in the starter) when heated, therefore
raising the bread, as if it contained a million tiny air-filled balloons.
When fully fermented, the starter
can be put in the
refrigerator and fed more flour and water once a week, or used in a recipe.
However, if the starter doesn't bubble, produces a strong unpleasant odor, or
becomes an off color such as pink, an undesirable yeast has taken hold, and the
starter must be discarded. (More
about starter problems with solutions).
The
longer and slower the yeast is allowed to ferment, the more intense flavor and
interesting texture will occur in an Artisan bread recipe. Sometimes by placing
the starter in cool temperatures, such as in a
refrigerator rise, slow down the production of carbon dioxide gas
by the yeast, which will produce a more sour bread - it's because the bacteria,
responsible for sour flavors keeps on fermenting during this time.
Question:
Where do the yeast (often Candida
milleri) and
bacteria (Lactobacillus)
come from?
Answer:
Both wild yeast and bacteria exist all
around us and can be found on the surface of leaves and flowers, soil,
saltwater, grains, fruits and vegetables. In fact, you inhale them as part
of the air you breathe or touch them because they exist on your
skin. Often times the very collection of micro-organisms we desire to
gather in a starter resides on the flour grains.
The wild yeast is a living,
single-celled true microscopic fungi, strains of the same family used when
cultivating packaged yeast. Research studies that a particular species of
yeast develops in any starter culture. This species differs from
commercial baker's yeast. It grows and thrives in a more acidic
environment that a starter provides, especially a sourdough culture. When
it feeds, the by-products of its fermentation are carbon dioxide and
alcohol, which leavens and flavors bread. Because yeast is a living
organism, working with it is trickier than packaged yeast; wild yeast is
perishable while packaged is shelf stable.
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Buttermilk is a fermented product made by adding lactic-acid producing
bacteria, usually Lactobacillus, the same strain found in bread
starters, or Streptococci, another strain. The bacteria
convert lactose (milk sugar) to lactic acid, which gives it a slightly
thickened, rich texture and crisp, tangy flavor, similar to it's
contribution to a starter mixture.
Different species or strains of
lactobacilli are responsible, in large part for the different flavors
and textures of the many different varieties of cheese and other
cultured milk products. Similarly different strains or species of
lactobacilli are mainly responsible for the different flavors produced
by starter cultures. |
The Lactobacillus attracted
to the starter is part of a certain strain of the "friendly" rod-shaped
bacteria that live in a symbiotic relationship with the yeast. It is one
of the bacteria that makes things sour, and is involved in making yogurt,
sour cream, cheese, buttermilk, and other cultured milk products.
Sometimes lactobacilli is to blame when milk just goes sour.
A
starter will attract only the type of bacteria unique to where it is made.
Some strains of desired micro-organisms may be more prevalent in
some habitats, such as the San Francisco Bay Area or Germany. An example
of this is with Lactobacillus sanfranciscans bacteria that is only found
in the San Francisco area of California. It's what gives the San Francisco
Sourdough Bread, its unique taste and texture. However, the only way to
get an authentic version, is to culture and ferment a starter, and
also bake it in San Francisco !
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SOURDOUGH & SPONGE STARTERS - Page 1
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