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Sourdough & Sponge Starters 101 - Pg. 2

Introduction: 

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SOURDOUGH & SPONGE STARTERS - Page 1

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SOURDOUGH & SPONGE STARTERS - Page 2

How to Make a Starter:

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HOW TO MAKE A STARTER

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COMMON QUESTIONS & ANSWERS

Baking with a Starter:

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HOW TO GET A CRISPY CRUST

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COMMON QUESTIONS & ANSWERS

Starter Terms:

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DEFINITIONS OF COMMONLY USED TERMS

BREAD TOPICS:

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Bread Types

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Special Bread Making Tips

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Problems with Solutions

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Terms & Definitions

HOW TO MAKE BASIC BREAD:

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INTRODUCTION

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1. Prepare the Ingredients & the Yeast

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2. Mix the Ingredients in a Foolproof Way

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3. Knead the Dough    

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4. The First Rise and Punch Down 

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5. Shape the Loaves & the Second Rise

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6. Preheat the Oven, Final Touches, Bake, Cool & Store

RECIPES: Here are two of my favorite recipes from a class I took from Nick Malgieri at Peter Kump's, NYC: 

SOURDOUGH STARTER RECIPE (Makes 4 cups) Use with the Sourdough Bread Recipe.

SPONGE STARTER RECIPE (Makes about 1 1/2 cups, enough to use 1 cup for this recipe and 1/2 cup for the next starter) See also, the Amish Friendship Bread Recipe.

FERMENTATION:  

What is fermentation?: YEAST + SUGAR (from the flour's starches and glucose and/or fructose) = Carbon dioxide (CO2) for Leavening & Alcohol for Flavor

A starter is a fermented batch of flour and water, sometimes with additional leavening, that eventually becomes a culture of wild/natural yeast. A sourdough also encourages the development of Lactobacillus (bacteria), as well. It is used to leaven and flavor a bread recipe, but it also favorably affects crust (thickness and color), crumb (texture), and shelf life. Yeast also transforms sugars and starches in the hydrated flour to be more digestable for humans as well as transforms amino acids, liberated from the flour protein into aromatic alcoholic compounds and esters with fruity flavors. 

The sourness of a given batch of starter depends on the number of generations that have passed and mutated, since the original starter was begun. Wild yeasts of fairly recent vintage usually produces a not-so-sour dough and a bread that is not as leavened. It is only when it is used and fed a couple of times that it becomes increasingly sour and active. The texture of the recipe also becomes more interesting the longer a starter ferments. If it becomes bitter, throw the starter away and start over again.

All yeast, whether packaged or wild, goes through a fermentation process. It begins when flour and water mixed together and yeast, whether added or cultivated, feeds and ferments. It stops when the bread is baked and the yeast die. An adequate food source, temperature and conditions must be right in order for fermentation to take place. Temperatures that are too hot will kill the yeast, so no carbon dioxide will be produced, but freezing temperatures can be tolerated sometimes.

Unlike commercial yeast (which likes an alkaline environment), wild yeast prefers an acidic one. It has to in order to survive the lactic acids produced by the Lactobacilli bacteria. Interestingly enough, this acid also serves to lock out mold present in the air by poisoning the mixture, so it doesn't become contaminated. 

To begin the fermentation process, the yeast feeds on the hydrated flour's starches and converts it to simple sugar (glucose) with an enzyme it contains. Both it and the bacteria found in a sourdough, feed on the sugar plus any added from fructose and/or glucose (fruit or honey), and multiply and grow. As by-products of the feedings, which you can see and smell in about 3 days for a sourdough and and hour or less for a sponge starter, the yeast (and Lactobacillus contributing some) will start to give-off carbon dioxide bubbles (CO2) and alcohol (ethanol) and the Lactobacillus, lactic and acetic acids. (Yeast does not produce appreciable amounts of either lactic or acetic acids). The CO2 will eventually leaven the bread recipe, with the alcohol and acids, contribute to a more complex flavor and texture to the recipe. A sponge does not have a characteristically acid taste that a sourdough bread has because of the absence of Lactobacillus in its starter, as well as the length of time fermented.

There are two schools of thought on how the bread rises. One says that "wild yeast" in the air causes the bread to rise. The other school of thought says that lactobacillus contributes to leavening, as well

QUESTION: I have been baking bread for several years and have become proficient at it...I recently got a sourdough starter... I have activated the starter and it seems to be healthy but not real vigorous. I baked with it today and it was a total flop. The bread never rose even the slightest bit after several hours. I followed all instructions I have found such as feeding the night before, allowing plenty of time to proof, etc. I was hoping you may know something about this and could give me some pointers.  

ANSWER: I have made starters and sometimes they do not work--it is a living organism and there are many variables at work at once contributing to its success and failure. A couple of things in your control is to make sure that you use distilled water--I once made a starter with tap and the same thing happened to me. Water varies from place to place and you can't always use it for sourdough. You may need to sterilize all equipment being used because mold spores are different in every area--and you never know how much they will affect your sourdough. I hope this helps. (More about how to cultivate and ferment a starter)

During the fermentation process, you can see and smell it while it is happening right before you; as the starter's ingredients ferment, the starter develops a characteristic sour odor and bubbles. As the starter ferments, it changes to a light yellow color, from white or another color depending upon the type of flour used. It smells increasingly sour, alcoholy and yeasty from the by-products from the yeast and bacteria's feedings and fermentation. The starter will also have a froth forming on top or bubbles forming round the edges of the container from the carbon dioxide.

I must warn you that if the sponge or dough becomes too sour, the gluten will be degraded or what provides for the bread's structure. This can happen from letting the sponge or dough sit too long at a warm temperature. It is important to try to catch each stage at its peak of yeast activity when it is foaming and bubbling and go on to the next stage.

Fermentation also causes what the French call it "long kneading; i.e. you do nothing and the gluten is partially developed in the starter which you see as strings when you stir it. The long elastic strands of wheat protein, called gluten, are formed in it when wheat flour is moistened and stirred. They become an elastic mesh, where the carbon dioxide are trapped. The warmth of a rising place or the oven will expand the air bubbles in the dough (and some in the starter) when heated, therefore raising the bread, as if it contained a million tiny air-filled balloons. 

When fully fermented, the starter can be put in the refrigerator and fed more flour and water once a week, or used in a recipe. However, if the starter doesn't bubble, produces a strong unpleasant odor, or becomes an off color such as pink, an undesirable yeast has taken hold, and the starter must be discarded. (More about starter problems with solutions). 

The longer and slower the yeast is allowed to ferment, the more intense flavor and interesting texture will occur in an Artisan bread recipe. Sometimes by placing the starter in cool temperatures, such as in a refrigerator rise, slow down the production of carbon dioxide gas by the yeast, which will produce a more sour bread - it's because the bacteria, responsible for sour flavors keeps on fermenting during this time.

Question: Where do the yeast (often Candida milleri) and bacteria (Lactobacillus) come from?

Answer: Both wild yeast and bacteria exist all around us and can be found on the surface of leaves and flowers, soil, saltwater, grains, fruits and vegetables. In fact, you inhale them as part of the air you breathe or touch them because they exist on your skin. Often times the very collection of micro-organisms we desire to gather in a starter resides on the flour grains. 

The wild yeast is a living, single-celled true microscopic fungi, strains of the same family used when cultivating packaged yeast. Research studies that a particular species of yeast develops in any starter culture. This species differs from commercial baker's yeast. It grows and thrives in a more acidic environment that a starter provides, especially a sourdough culture. When it feeds, the by-products of its fermentation are carbon dioxide and alcohol, which leavens and flavors bread. Because yeast is a living organism, working with it is trickier than packaged yeast; wild yeast is perishable while packaged is shelf stable.

Buttermilk is a fermented product made by adding lactic-acid producing bacteria, usually Lactobacillus, the same strain found in bread starters, or Streptococci, another strain. The bacteria convert lactose (milk sugar) to lactic acid, which gives it a slightly thickened, rich texture and crisp, tangy flavor, similar to it's contribution to a starter mixture. 

Different species or strains of lactobacilli are responsible, in large part for the different flavors and textures of the many different varieties of cheese and other cultured milk products. Similarly different strains or species of lactobacilli are mainly responsible for the different flavors produced by starter cultures.

The Lactobacillus attracted to the starter is part of a certain strain of the "friendly" rod-shaped bacteria that live in a symbiotic relationship with the yeast. It is one of the bacteria that makes things sour, and is involved in making yogurt, sour cream, cheese, buttermilk, and other cultured milk products. Sometimes lactobacilli is to blame when milk just goes sour.

A starter will attract only the type of bacteria unique to where it is made. Some strains of desired micro-organisms may be more prevalent in some habitats, such as the San Francisco Bay Area or Germany. An example of this is with Lactobacillus sanfranciscans bacteria that is only found in the San Francisco area of California. It's what gives the San Francisco Sourdough Bread, its unique taste and texture. However, the only way to get an authentic version, is to culture and ferment a starter, and also bake it in San Francisco !  

SOURDOUGH & SPONGE STARTERS - Page 1

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